Lawn & Garden Tips

5 Easy Things You Can Do to Improve Your Green Space

admin — Wed, 20 Feb 2008 03:01:00 GMT

Seed for Thought:
Five Easy Ways Anyone Can Improve Their Green Space

No matter what the climate or situation, every homeowner can enjoy the environmental, economic and lifestyle benefits that come from caring from your lawn and landscape. Proper care of trees, grass and shrubs is surprisingly simple and its rewards are numerous on both a personal and community level.

Here are five quick tips for maximizing the benefits of your green space:

Take care of your grass. While this may seem like an obvious piece of advice, it is often overlooked. Taking care of your own front yard is a good first step towards protecting and maintaining your green space. Lawns play a major role in protecting ground water by reducing runoff, thus preventing soil erosion, maintaining soil permeability and conserving water. Lawns also provide an extension of your overall living space, and for many families, become an enjoyable private oasis.

Choose flowers and plants that suit your area’s climate. It is imperative that you choose plants and flowers that tolerate your area’s climate. Choosing the correct plants will ensure a beautiful garden year after year, and make the job of caring for your plants much easier. Having a beautiful green space has also been known to lower blood pressure, reduce muscle tension, improve attention spans and reduce feelings of fear and aggression.

Prune, prune, prune. Pruning is something that is important to maintain your flowers, plants and shrubs year after year, but it also needs to be done correctly. Improper pruning can actually be more harmful than neglecting to prune at all. Proper pruning will produce better blooms, maintain a plants desired size and can even rejuvenate an older shrub. Having well-maintained flowers and shrubs will not only make your green space more attractive, but it will also provide a protective habitat for birds and other creatures that serve to enhance the natural beauty of your outdoor living space.

Enrich your soil with a compost pile. Who knew those old coffee grounds, filters and dryer lint could be the golden ticket to creating a beautiful green space. These types of materials combined with yard clippings, wood chips and leaves regenerate your soil. The breakdown of these materials creates humus, which is a nutrient-filled material, helping the soil to retain moisture. Compost can also cut down on plant disease and repel pests that are damaging to your yard. Creating a compost pile will not only provide rich nutrients that your soil needs, but it also helps the environment by cutting back on landfill waste, thus extending the life of the landfill.

Plant a tree. Planting a tree is one of the most simple and effective activities you can perform to improve your green space. In areas of new construction, many neighborhoods start out virtually treeless. The results include high cooling costs, less oxygen and more pollutants. There are many trees that are inexpensive and fast-growing. In fact, some can grow up to 12 feet per year, quickly reversing the effects of new construction. Trees not only help to keep the heat out of the house, but also cool the outside temperature around your house as well. A study in Huntsville, Ala. showed a 31-degree difference between the shaded and unshaded areas of a parking lot. By using trees to modify temperatures, the amount of fossil fuels used for cooling and heating is reduced.

Updating and maintaining your green spaces is easy! The environmental, economic and lifestyle benefits that trees, grass, shrubs and flowers provide are well worth the extra effort it takes to create and maintain a well-manicured landscape.

Late Season Lawn & Garden Tips

admin — Fri, 28 Sep 2007 13:54:00 GMT

Cool Weather Catch Up

This is the time of year when almost any effort you put into your lawn or landscape will be richly rewarded. Nature works overtime through the fall and seems to deliver double results for every effort. Here are a few ideas that will get your property ready for a great spring.

The soil: make a habit of adding ‘the good stuff’ every fall

You can make a huge difference in how your lawn and plantings grow by adding soil amendments every fall. Lime, sulfur, gypsum, peat moss, even sand can all help in certain situations. Which do you need—and where? Nearly all planting beds will reward you for adding peat, compost or some other type of organic material. And a soil test at least once every three years will tell you about any chemical imbalances. If amendments are applied in the fall, winter rains will dissolve and carry them into the soil. Apply them to the lawn right after aeration for the quickest response.

Lawn feeding: speeds recovery, growth, and increases food storage for spring

Research has proven that heavy fall fertilization is critical to good turf plant growth. Increased plant density; decreased spring mowing and

summer weed problems; improved fall-to-spring color; increased drought tolerance; and decreased disease problems are a few of the benefits.
Timing is important. One or two heavy feedings during the fall assures your plants will have enough food reserves over the winter to emerge with a good root system and healthy start in spring.
Both lawns and landscape plants will show tremendous response to proper feeding during the fall.

Composting, seeding, mulching

If you haven’t yet, consider composting. Fall leaves will give you a good start.
Fall is the best time for re-seeding your lawn. There’s almost no competition from weeds and no worries about crabgrass. And the seed gets established before next summer’s heat.
Mulching beds will protect tender plants through winter and look good too.

From Summer Green to the Rainbow of Fall: How Do Leaves Change Color

Everyone enjoys the brilliant yellows, reds and oranges that appear on trees in the fall, but how does it happen? And why is it so much better some years than others? Tree leaves have a layer of cells called the abscission layer located in the leaf stalk. Abscission means to cut off or remove, and it fits in this case. At the end of the season, the cells in the abscission layer begin to gradually break down. When they’ve broken down completely, the leaf falls off. How long this period lasts is part of what makes a “good” color year.

During this “breakdown” period, the production of chlorophyll stops and the chlorophyll in the leaves breaks down. As chlorophyll disappears, two yellow pigments become visible: carotene and xanthophyll, which give the leaves their yellow color. These pigments are in the leaves all season, but their color is masked by the green of the chlorophyll.

Brilliant red colors depend on two factors: plenty of bright light and cool nights. The bright days promote sugar production in the leaves, and the cool nights trap them there. When sugar concentrations are high in the leaves, a red pigment called anthocyanin is manufactured.
Orange colors are the result of different amounts of the yellow and red pigments mixing for a whole range of in-between colors.

If the nights get too cool or the days are overcast, you end up with an “off year” for tree color. And a killing frost ends the show completely by killing all the pigments in the leaves no matter what stage they’re in.

Fall Fertilization

Fertilizer for your lawn never does more good than in fall. Many folks think that the spring applications are the most important to get things up and growing. But actually, too much spring fertilizer can lead to a flush of growth that can invite disease and pest problems. It almost always makes extra mowings necessary, too.

It’s best for moderate amounts of nutrients to be put down on your lawn at regular times throughout the growing season, finishing up with liberal feedings through the fall.

Here’s why. As days shorten, top growth on grass plants slows down because there’s less sunlight. The green parts of grass require less food. That means that nutrients in fertilizer put down now will be available for use by the roots. Roots will have all fall to convert the fertilizer into stored food, becoming thicker and stronger in the process. When warmer weather returns in a few months, the more efficient root system of your turf will give you a thicker and greener lawn earlier in the spring.

Ideally, the last application should be put on approximately 3 to 5 weeks before top growth stops, so make sure your lawn gets all the fertilizer it needs this fall.

Think Ahead for Rewarding Blooms Next Spring

Do you remember seeing colorful displays of flowering bulbs in your neighbors’ yards last spring? Maybe you thought, “I’d like to put some tulips or daffodils in my yard.” Well, now’s the time to plant all kinds of spring bulbs.

Spring bloomers develop their roots in the fall, before winter really sets in. This growth period is crucial to next spring’s successful flowering. You should purchase bulbs early to allow time to plant them, and to ensure a good selection. If you order bulbs from catalogs, remember to allow for shipping time.

Bulbs will perform better if you prepare the soil before planting them. Dig out the soil to a depth of 10-12" and work in organic matter, like peat moss or compost. To improve drainage, add sand or gypsum. Finally, mix in bone meal or a similar bulb fertilizer before planting. Plant the bulbs with pointed ends up.

Then just relax…and wait for next spring’s show.

August Lawn & Garden Tips

admin — Thu, 09 Aug 2007 19:07:00 GMT

WATER FEATURES:

The sights and sounds of water help to make any setting more relaxing, and there are many choices available for adding water features to your landscape.

A birdbath is the easiest option. Just be sure to place it where you can see it from your home, deck or patio.

Or, if you’re more interested in seeing and hearing water on the move, you may want to consider a wall-mounted fountain. These fountains hang on an outside wall and include a self-contained pump. Because they’re wall-mounted, they’ll be protected from leaves and other debris by your roof’s eaves.

If you’d like to add a water feature on a grander scale, a landscape pond is the way to go. Whether it’s made from preformed plastic, a plastic liner or concrete, a landscape pond can serve as a beautiful focal point while serving as a home for a wide range of water plants and fish.

With a water feature, you can add a whole new level of pleasure and interest to your property. And remember, water is so integral to nature that it will fit perfectly into just about any landscape setting!

SUMMER LAWN STRESS:

Though the summer season can be a relaxing time of year for some, it can be very stressful for your lawn. Heat, lack of moisture, humidity, insects, and disease are all byproducts of the summer season that can take a serious toll on your turf.

As you walk around your yard this summer, keep an eye out for signs of stress. If your lawn has a blueish-green hue, or if your footprints remain visible in the turf after you’ve walked on it, your lawn may be suffering from stress due to insufficient irrigation or drought. In addition, brown patches of turf or lesions on grass blades are signs that insects or fungus diseases may be preying on your lawn.

Preventative maintenance. A healthy lawn that is well-cared-for will have a better chance of surviving summer stresses. The first step is to make sure your turf is getting enough water.

Your lawn will need from 1" to 11⁄2" of water per week, and you should water to a depth of 6" to make sure enough moisture is reaching the root zone. You can make the most of every drop by watering during the cooler parts of the day to reduce moisture loss from evaporation.

Proper mowing is important during the summer as well. No more than 1⁄3 of the grass blade should be removed each time you mow, and your mower blades should be sharpened three to four times per season.

Fertilization will also help to keep your lawn healthy. With regular applications, your turf will be stronger and better able to fight off insects, disease and other summer stresses. In fact, lawns that receive regular fertilization actually need less water during the summer than lawns that go without it.

PLANNING FOR FALL LAWN REPAIRS

Almost every lawn can use a little fixing up or repairing, and the end of summer (or early fall) is just about the best time to do it.

But just like any other “remodeling” job, it’s best to have a good plan, or blueprint, of what needs doing before you begin. So let’s start with some possible needs:

Aeration for thatch control
Spot seeding to fill bare patches
Slice seeding to thicken the lawn
Complete renovation to rebuild your lawn from the ground up

There are a lot of reasons why your lawn might need one or more of these renovation services. Some might be due to lack of water through the summer, unseen attacks from insects or disease, heavy foot traffic, or poor drainage. All of these problems can create the need for some repair work.

Remember: timing makes a big difference

If you decide to seed, make sure you time it right. Timing really matters. Try to have seed planted early enough so that your new grass can be mowed several times during the fall. And be sure to use the best possible seed for the most dependable results.

WATER CONSERVATION:

Conservation of almost everything is on people’s minds these days. We think this is all to the good. There are lots of ways to save by recycling, careful selection, and just plain using less.

You don’t have to make your lawn or landscape plants suffer to save water this summer. The trick is to get the most mileage out of the sprinkling you do.

One of the big mistakes to avoid is applying light, shallow sprinklings that moisten the surface of the soil but don’t get much water to the root system. This actually wastes water because the water that is applied doesn’t get used efficiently.

Other water wasters are the sprinklers that can be seen watering the streets and sidewalks in most neighborhoods during the summer. The spray from a sprinkler can be carried away from the lawn by the wind, or the spray head might just need adjusting—either way, asphalt and concrete really don’t need the water.

Too much overlap in your pattern is another water “leak” you can easily plug. Be careful to water all the area, but only once. When moving the sprinklers, allow only a small overlap in your pattern.

Water Saving Tips

Water only when the soil is dry to a depth of 6-8".
Water deeply (usually an hour in each spot). Avoid shallow sprinklings.
Adjust your sprinklers to avoid getting overspray onto drives, walks, and streets.
When watering, cover each area only once. Try not to create overlap that over-waters parts of the lawn.
Water larger trees and shrubs very slowly. Let a hose trickle at the base for several hours.

Make every drop count.

May Lawn & Garden Tips

admin — Wed, 16 May 2007 18:41:00 GMT

Can Your Lawn Take the Heat?

Summer will be here soon, and it can be brutal on your lawn. But summer hardiness can be improved this year and in the years ahead. Here are some things to think about through the rest of the growing season:

Mowing

As temperatures increase, you should gradually raise your mowing height by 25% to 50%. You should also remove no more than 1⁄3 of the grass blade at a time. This will keep the soil shaded and encourage deeper roots. When summer heat starts to subside, you can gradually lower the mowing height again.

Watering

Water your lawn deeply and infrequently, since light, frequent waterings encourage shallow roots that can’t sustain grass plants. Your lawn needs from 1" to 11⁄2" of water per week from rainfall or sprinkling, and you should soak the soil to a depth of 6" each time. Early morning is the best time to water.

Core Aeration and Fertilization

Core aeration in the fall opens up the soil, breaks up thatch and improves the flow of air, water and fertilizer to the roots. By having your lawn fertilized after aeration, your turf will be less susceptible to disease while exhibiting improved recovery from the stresses of summer heat and drought. Fall fertilization will also lead to fewer summer weed problems, better fall-to-spring color, and a decreased need spring mowing.

Got Spring Bloom Envy?

As you look around your neighborhood this spring, you may see some flowering trees that you’d like to have in your own landscape. If a tree that you like is flourishing in your neighborhood, that’s a good indicator that it will do well on your property too. But before making any final decisions, you should make sure you have answers to the following questions:

• Will the tree eventually outgrow its intended site?
• What type of fruit or pods will it produce (if any)?
• How much pruning will be needed to keep it in shape?
• What will it look like in the fall?
• How susceptible will it be to insect or disease problems?

Once you’re sure that the tree you have in mind is a good choice for your property, you can go ahead with the installation. If you’re looking for suggestions, you may want to consider some of the following:

Cherry
Magnolia
Crabapple
Plum
Crape myrtle
Redbud

Dogwood
Serviceberry
Fringetree
Tuliptree
Hawthorn
Tree lilac

Preventing Storm Damage

When severe storms hit your neighborhood, the valuable landscape trees on your property may be at risk of sustaining major damage. High winds are the most common cause of storm damage to trees.

Wind damage can occur when there are too many branches with too little space between them, or when branch connections are structurally weak. Previously damaged or decaying limbs can also be a problem.

Are Your Trees at Risk?

The best way to determine whether your trees can handle high winds is to have them inspected by a certified arborist. In some cases, thinning some of your trees may be all that’s needed. Or, it might be necessary to remove dead or dying wood.

Remember that lightning can cause serious damage too. If you’re concerned about the possibility of lightning strikes, you may want to look into having lightning protection systems installed.

Questions & Answers

Q. I’ve heard people talking about “deadheading” perennials. What does this mean?

A. Deadheading refers to removing spent (or faded) flowers from a plant. Whether you’re deadheading a perennial or an annual, less energy will be used for seed production, so more blooms can be produced. On average, perennials bloom for three to four weeks during their peak season. But they can be encouraged to bloom even longer through deadheading. Here are just a few perennial plants that are known to respond favorably to deadheading:

Butterflyweed
Shasta daisy
Coreopsis

Lavender
Purple coneflower
Scabiosa

Baby’s breath
Salvia
Rose campion

Quick Tips for Spring

• It’s a good idea to turn the soil in flower beds at least once before planting. This aerates the soil and makes planting easier.

• Disease and insect activity is building up steam on trees and shrubs right about now. If you see signs of insects on your valuable landscape plants, control measures should be taken as soon as possible to prevent major damage from occurring.

• Now is a good time to check the structure of your trees and larger shrubs. Keep an eye out for branches that are rubbing against each other or weak junctions that could easily break or snap in high winds. Plants with these problems will benefit from corrective pruning.

• Consider a small water feature for your deck or patio this year. Small, pre-formed ponds are easy to install and naturalize. Or you might prefer a fountain. There are hundreds to choose from, and the sound of gurgling water will have a relaxing and cooling effect throughout the upcoming summer!

April Tips

admin — Thu, 15 Mar 2007 16:58:00 GMT

What’s Bugging You?

When spring returns, lawn insects do too. As the weather warms up during the days ahead, here are some of the lawn insects that may make a meal out of your lawn:

Chinch Bugs
Winged insects that are black or gray in color. They suck juices from grass blades and tend to thrive in hot weather.
Cutworms
Dark, 1" to 2" larvae that feed on grass leaves and crowns.
White Grubs
White and gray beetle larvae that feed on grass roots.
Billbugs
Brownish-black weevils that feed on grass roots and crowns.
Leafhoppers
Tiny, grasshopper-like bugs that fly up in swarms as you walk by. They suck juices from grass blades.

If you suspect these or any other insect pests in your lawn, have your lawn inspected as soon as possible to arrange for treatment.

Save Mulching for Later

Make no mistake: Mulch is a very beneficial addition to your landscape plants and flower beds. It prevents many weeds and grasses from sprouting by blocking sunlight from the soil, it helps to retain moisture in the soil around the root zone, and it can keep soil up to 10 degrees cooler in the summer to reduce plant stress. But to get all of these benefits from mulch, it has to be applied at the right time of year.

If mulch is applied too early, it can do more harm than good. For example, in the early spring, the soil is still cool. Applying mulch over cool or cold soil will keep the soil cool and slow down important root growth.

For best results, mulch should be applied after the soil has warmed up and dried out a bit. And be sure not to overdo it. A 3" to 4" layer is enough to slow down weeds, conserve moisture and moderate soil temperatures. Any more than that can keep the soil too wet and reduce the amount of oxygen that gets to the roots. Mulch also shouldn’t be placed against tree and shrub trunks and stems, since this can bring on diseases by keeping the plant bases too moist.

When it comes to mulching, remember - mulch later, and mulch in moderation!

Question & Answer

Q. When is the best time to prune flowering shrubs?

A. Pruning is a regular, important part of keeping your flowering plants healthy, contained and looking their best. The right time depends on when the flowers appear.

Plants that bloom in early spring on old wood (or growth from the previous season) should be pruned a week or two after flowers drop. Those that bloom in late summer on stem growth from the current growing season shouldn’t be pruned until they’re dormant.

It’s good to keep after your shrubs, because pruning removes diseased and damaged plant parts, helps air circulate and sunlight get in, and stops structural problems in future plant growth. Flowering plants, in particular, produce more flowers and fruit when pruned at the right time.

Don’t Let Your Landscape Go Down the Drain!

All plants need water to survive. But too much water can be just as bad as too little. If your property has poor drainage, some action is needed to move excess water away.

Are Your Plants Drowning?
Plant roots need oxygen. Water collecting in low areas forces oxygen out of the soil and can starve plant roots of the air they need.

Also, wet areas usually have more weeds, and grass plants in these spots are more susceptible to waterborne diseases. What’s worse, turf growing in a wet area doesn’t develop a deep root system. As a result, shallow-rooted lawns dry up in times of drought.

Helping Nature Along
There are many things to consider in fixing a drainage problem, and professional help is a good idea. The solution might be as simple as adding soil to a low area, or constructing a surface swale that runs downhill. Or, your situation may demand more sophisticated subsurface drainage.

Installed systems involve digging a trench; lining it with pea gravel; adding perforated, flexible pipe; and covering the pipe with more gravel (and maybe soil). The exact procedure will depend on your location and soil type. However it’s done, every system needs to flow downhill and away from the wet areas.

Avoiding “wet feet” with good drainage will reward you with a healthier, more beautiful and more valuable landscape!